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Domaine de la Combe, Muscadet de Sevre et Maine 2019

  • de la combe muscadet
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Product Description

In conversion to organic certification and vinified without sulphites and spontaneous fermentation. Eight months on lees.

If you love Picpoul but you haven't tasted Muscadet, what are you waiting for? Pierre-Henri Gadais is now really making his mark at the helm of his family’s domaine and whilst Muscadet might not be (yet) the most fashionable place for a young winemaker to set out his stall, Pierre-Henri is genuinely enthusiastic about the potential of his native region and if you want a bright, saline, food-friendly white to freshen the palate, then a proper Muscadet such as this is all that you need.

The vineyard lies on one of the best sites in Nantais at Saint-Fiâcre. Here the soils are layered with orthogneiss, a cracked, mineral-rich rock through which the vine roots weave and nourish the vine. Made traditionally at this small estate, the grapes were hand-picked, lightly pressed to retain their delicacy and purity of flavour, and fermented at cool temperatures to preserve their aromas. The wine was left on its fine lees until the following spring to add complexity and extra richness.

Crisp, flinty notes with a hint of yeasty lees on the nose. The palate is fresh and savoury with the breadth of a warmer vintage and a ripe, almost tropical (starfruit?) character to the fruit. A lovely Muscadet.

This has zing and trapeze-artist, high-wired energy. It tastes of beachcombing in winter, when the sea is grey and crashing surf on rocks and sand – it tastes of seaweed and bleached shells, salty wind and sheltered rock pools and the sweetness of mussels. It tastes of the iron of the sky. And then, in case you’re thinking this is a severe wine, it tastes of the exquisite sweetness of a ripe white peach eaten in season at just that perfect moment when the juice drips down your fingers and chin. There is an arrow shaft of purity in this wine. 16.5 points – Very Good Value, Tamlyn Currin, JancisRobinson.com (1st February 2021)

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